
Besides, I didn't want to pay 2nd Day Air charges for something that big. I can get the drill guide locally, so I'm going to give it a shot by hand and see how it goes.
The order from McFeely's is already on the way. Some adaptation, probably a custom template, would be needed. The workpieces accurately aligned, no brads. Just had a thought-if you've got a VS600, it might make a nifty production jig for Confirmat installation.
Perhaps the underside stop could flip out of the way for non-edge drilling?. You want any influence the hose has on the jig to be pulling it into position, not away. I'd arrange the dust collector so that it was on the handle side of the jig. Sometimes you'll be holding the jig with your right hand, sometimes your left. You want to draw the jig against the work, not push it sideways. The dust collection piece is a Bosch part for a 1613 router. On your Confirmat projects, you'll need it for non-edge drilling. The shoulder on the underside of the jig aligns against the edge of the work piece.īy not cannibalizing the General jig, merely swapping some parts, the General jig remains usable. Brad the right-angle pieces together and go. This jig makes the edge placement a lot easier. 36, I think), a piece of 3/8" drill rod and a 3/8 collar. Then get the General jig you pictured in the first post (it's the No. Definitely get the step drill that Mirko & John recommend. Both of these spoil the effectiveness of the drill flutes by getting clogged up, though, so you might find that the time you spend cleaning out the flutes fills up the time you would otherwise save.I disagree. some sleeving on the bit can help) - OK if you don't need high RPM drilling, but not well balanced if you do! Another alternative is a bit of aluminium tube cut to the right length (ie leaving the depth you want to drill protruding from the tube when it's up against the chuck) and held onto the bit with blu-tack or somethin (it doesn't need to be held all that firmly, it's just to stop it dropping off when not in use). On occasion I've used the innards of "chocolate block" wiring connectors (the sort that have two screws into a metal tube, careful how tight you screw them you can break a bit that way.
It's probably worthwhile making some sort of depth stop for the 7mm and 10mm parts. At that price, you could buy three and put one bit in each? You can also get quick change bit-holders, but the total cost might be about the same!